Hanoi is one of the cities I was most looking forward to visiting on this trip. Granted, it may be because it’s the first city on our trip, I was focusing on it more than any of the other cities.
As much as I was looking forward to spending time here, though, I was wholly mentally unprepared for the complete crazy that consumes Hanoi.
It’s hard to explain the nonstop chaos that is going on in the city at all hours of the day and night. One of the most clear and memorable experiences that illustrates it for me, though, are the smells of the city.
Walking down the block on our very first day in the city, I was hit with the overwhelming smells of raw sewage, grilling seafood, motorcycle fuel, and baby powder – all within a second of one another, each immediately replacing the one prior to it.
The constantly changing bombardments of the different senses leave the mind swimming, and it’s hard to not feel completely overwhelmed.
Walking down the same streets, foreigners will be amazed at the mind-boggling amount of motorcycles and mopeds, packed with upwards of six people on a two-seater, racing at break-neck speeds down the street, seemingly unconcerned with any other vehicles, people, or traffic rules surrounding them.
Between these motorbikes, the cyclos, taxis, and the occasional personal vehicles, and then combined with the near total lack of traffic lights or any sort of rules (including driving on the correct side of the road), it’s a wonder thousands of people aren’t killed on the streets every day.
But, in a way that is such a perfect summary of Hanoi, despite the absolute madness going on all around, there is a definite rhythm that, while indescribable, is nonetheless the only rule of the road. Fortunately, it’s surprisingly easy to pick up.
As we walked out the front door for our first day around the city, Scott and I were immediately terrified to leave our hotel. We waited a good ten minutes for enough of a break to cross the narrow street, about half the width of our streets back home.
But, within another ten minutes of walking along the route through the Old Quarter, we were completely in tune with the rhythm of the streets, knowing how to judge when an opening that looked far too tight was just enough time to feel the rush of wind that the passing bike sent onto the back of our ankles as we hit the other side.
There are so many stories during just our first day of Hanoi. They each could warrant their own individual post. It’s amazing to me that in merely four hours out in the city, I can easily come up with a month’s worth of writing material.
But, that’s Hanoi – all-consuming of the senses; unrelenting in its ability to swallow the mind, leaving the owner swimming in confusion; and, rich beyond one’s wildest dreams in its stories.
I only hope that even though I feel like I’m in a constant state of confusion, my memory will work well enough to hold onto these stories for when I can catch my breath for a moment. From what I have seen so far, it may be a long while until those breath-catching moments come again.
Cheers,
E